Speaking Style

Most fashion designers often choose to go for flashier glamour first and then industry techniques second. Raf Simons, while designing for Jil Sanders, apparently decided to reverse the roles. The Fall 2008 Jil Sanders collection is the farthest thing you’d find from glamorous, especially with bigger brands like Prada and Gucci piling the glamour factor high. It’s distinctive, however, because it doubles as a showcase of novel techniques in dressmaking and tailoring.

The show started with a knee-length, long-sleeved, slouchy navy dress that effectively captured the knit look which has become something of a fashion trend lately. But instead of the form fitting knits that other brands like Fendi and Missoni have rolled out, Simons’ focus on drape gave the designer fashion item an all-new twist. The outfits that followed were alternating displays of beautifully gentle draping and more conservative construction. It’s likely that seasoned fashion connoisseurs will find flaws in Simons’ execution, but real-world fashionistas are sure to appreciate the practicality that his menswear background brings to the table.

But the collection wasn’t entirely devoid of glam. There was also a considerable amount of drama, courtesy of top-heavy details and high, dramatic collars. Menswear fabrics that had a lot of depth and texture helped add another dimension to all the designs that had them.

Aside from the very wearable outfits, accessories were another noticeable factor in the Jil Sanders collection for this season, albeit on a negative note. Simons brought out some rather unusual footwear for the runway show, just like Miuccia Prada did for Miu Miu. Instead of looking modern and interesting, however, the curved shape simply looked impractical and potentially painful. Perhaps Simons would have done better by bringing his menswear eye and aesthetic to his accessory choices as well.

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